Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks

Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument

Congress established the Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument May 21, 2014 to protect prehistoric, historic, geologic, and biologic resources. The monument, totaling 500,000 acres, includes the Organ Mountains, the Doña Ana Mountains, the Sierra de las Uvas Mountains, and the Greater Potrillo Mountains. Many areas of the monument are isolated, with few visitors, which is a good reason not to head into the wilderness unprepared. If anything goes awry, there may not be people around and your cell phone probably won’t have a signal. It is a good idea to load up on everything you might need: water, sunscreen, hat, snakebite kit, first aid kit, etc.

The mountains in this region are volcanic, sculpted by the same intense geologic forces that formed the Rio Grande Rift. The rugged terrain ranges from Chihuahuan Desert habitat to ponderosa pine at higher elevations. The mountain range is comprised of steep-sided crevices, canyons, grasslands, open woodlands, several perennial springs, towering spires, and lava flows. On a clear day the iconic spires are visible from 100+ miles in every direction. The Organ Needle is the high point in the complex, peaking at slightly under 9,000 feet. The elevation plummets 4,000 feet three miles west of the Needle, making the Organ Mountains one of the steepest mountain ranges in the western United States.

History of the Area

Long before the Spanish arrived via the ancient trading path that would become the Camino Real, the Organ, Robledo, Uvas, and Potrillo Mountains were inhabited by prehistoric creatures and long extinct mammals. Later, Paleo-Indians hunted the area, taking shelter in mountain caves. The Jornada Culture thrived in this region. They migrated out of the area in the late 13th century and the Apache moved in, ranging from the mountains to the plains. The Apache were followed by a steady stream of Spanish conquistadors, priests, and settlers flowing north from the Spanish territorial capital in Mexico City. It was the Spanish that named the jagged spires Sierra de Los Organos based on their resemblance to pipe organs. Today, the majestic pinnacles dominate the eastern horizon of Las Cruces, New Mexico.

Remnants of New Mexico’s past are strewn across the remote back country. Ancient archaeological sites reflect at least 10,000 years of human occupation. Petroglyphs from three separate Native American cultures have weathered the eons, etched, pecked and painted on remote cliffs and massive boulders. Stagecoach and wagon tracks are visible, stretching across the grasslands to the horizon, a testament to the settlers, soldiers and speculators that streamed west after the Mexican American War. The area is rich in culture, history and natural resources.

Organ Mountains

The Organ Mountains are a few miles east of Las Cruces. The range is a southerly extension of the larger San Andres Mountains. Both ranges create a natural divide between the Rio Grande Valley and the Tularosa Valley. The Organ Mountains were first documented by Don Juan de Oñate in 1598 as his expedition traveled north to establish a colony near present day Española. For 300 years the trail, known as El Camino Real del Adentro, was the sole route north from Mexico City to the provincial capital in Santa Fe. The area around the Organ Mountains was the last opportunity to stock up on water before embarking on the dreaded Jornada del Muerto, “Journey of the Dead Man”.

Beautiful Volcanic Landscape

There are several natural springs in the Organ Mountains. They provide a source of precious water in an otherwise parched landscape. As a result, the area is one of the most botanically diverse ecosystems of any mountain range in New Mexico. Whereas the grasslands provide critical habitat for rare birds like the Aplomado falcon and Baird’s sparrow, the sheer cliffs provide nesting and perching sites for raptors, including bald and golden eagles, various hawks, owls, and the critically endangered peregrine falcons. Additionally, it is prime habitat for pronghorn, mule deer, mountain lion, bobcat, coyote, bats, rock squirrels, other rodents, quail, a bevy of birds, and a plethora of arthropods.

In case you are wondering, arthropods are creatures with exoskeletons, segmented bodies and jointed legs, like tarantulas, of which there are many. Tarantulas are exceptionally large, furry, scary looking spiders, but they are not dangerous. If you encounter one, ignore it and go around. Don’t take close-ups for ten minutes before remembering they can jump. That would be me.

The most spectacular section of the Organ Mountains is the Needles, a jagged ridge of eroded granite pinnacles that rise a mile above the Rio Grande to the west and the Tularosa Basin to the east. The granite spires were created by pyroclastic flows and lava almost 34 million years ago. The massive towers of barren rock are cleft with narrow fissures containing narrow swaths of lush oak trees.

Prehistoric Inhabitants

Folsom points left by ancient hunters have been found in multiple caves. trchaeologists found evidence that humans were in the region 8000-12,000 years ago in The caves near Peña Blanca and La Cueva. They excavated the La Cueva rock shelter in the 1970’s and found numerous artifacts confirming occupancy by various tenants over the millenniums, starting with Paleo-Indians 7,000+ years ago. Archaeologists excavated the Peña Blanca caves in the 1980’s and discovered the earliest known cultivated corn in the U.S.

Trails

Aguirre Springs | Pine Tree Trail (Map)

The Needles provide a scenic backdrop to the BLM-managed Aguirre Spring Recreation Area, 21 miles east of Las Cruces. Take U.S. 70 for 14 miles east of the I-25/U.S. 70 interchange in Las Cruces, then turn south on the Aguirre Spring Road (1.1 miles after San Augustine Pass) for six miles. At mile 4 the road becomes a one-way loop and climbs steeply.

Aguirre Spring is located in a sheltered valley on the northeast side of the ridge. The campground is at 5,700 feet, making it significantly cooler than the desert lowlands. The campground has few facilities and is not suitable for large RVs. There are two hiking trails. Pine Tree Trail is a 4.2 mile loop trail, usually low traffic. This trail is a bit more taxing than dripping springs…call it moderate to taxing (based on being acclimated to high altitude). The wild flowers and foliage is beautiful, an oasis in the desert. When it rains or there is snow melt, the spontaneous waterfalls at Aguirre Springs are stunning.

The campground allows dogs. Fees are $3/day for day use. $3/night to camp. $25 reservation fee for the two group campsites.

Aguirre Springs | Baylor Pass Trail (Map)

The 6-mile-long Baylor Trail is the only maintained trail that traverses the Organ Range. There are two trailheads, one on the east end at the Aguirre Springs Recreation Area, and the other on the west end just off Baylor Canyon Road. The east trailhead is at an elevation of 5,540 ft., rising to 6,430 ft. at Baylor Pass, then down to 4,865 ft. at the west trailhead. The pass is approx. 2.5 miles from the east trailhead. There is also a great opportunity to bag a summit. Head north from the top of the pass and work your way along the west side of the ridge to reach the summit of Baylor Peak (elev. 7,721′).

Drippings Springs | (Map)

The Dripping Springs Natural Area is located 10 miles east of Las Cruces. From Exit 1 on Interstate 25, take University Avenue/Dripping Springs Road east to the end. There are excellent wildlife viewing opportunities in this area, with almost 5 miles of easy hiking trails. Dripping Springs Trail is one of the most popular, with desert scrub, pinon-juniper and oak woodlands adorning the route to the ruins of the Van Patten Mountain Camp and Boyd’s tuberculosis sanitarium. Van Patten’s Mountain Camp was built in 1870, providing relief from summer heat for residents and travelers alike. A couple of decades later, Dr. Nathan Boyd built a sanatorium. Today the buildings receive thousands of recreational visitors every year, tourists and locals alike.

Dripping Springs Trail

Dripping Springs Trail intersects with the Crawford Trail at the ¾ mile mark. Stay on the right fork to stay on Dripping Springs Trail. At about 1.3 miles there is a fork in the trail. Take the right branch. Take a right at the next junction as well. The old Boyd Sanitarium is about 0.1 miles. When looking at the dining hall, look for the rock stairway on the left side. Follow the stairway up and left to the waterfall above the area. Return on the same path. Return to the prior junction and take a right. The remains of the Van Patten Mountain Camp is about 300 feet up the trail. After exploring the camp, continue around the loop trail to the main trail to return to the visitor’s center or to hike the other loops.

La Cueva Trail

La Cueva Trail has a spur that goes to the Hermit’s cave, an Italian gentleman that took up residence for a couple of years at the end of the 1860s. It didn’t end well. When friends went to check on him, they found him dead, with a knife through his back. The murderer was never apprehended. The La Cueva Trail has an additional spur that goes into a dead end canyon with a nice waterfall. A tiny desert oasis.

There is a visitor center at Dripping Springs Natural Area, with handicapped-accessible restrooms, twelve picnic sites, and one large family/group picnic site that can be reserved through the BLM Las Cruces District Office. They don’t allow camping or pets.

Dripping Springs is open all year, other than winter holidays, 8:00 A.M. to 5:00 p.m.
$25 reservation for group picnic site.
(575) 522-1219. $3/day.

Sierra Vista Trail | (Map)

No fee. For more experienced hikers, the Sierra Vista Trail runs along the edge of the Organ mountains, with beautiful views of the mountains and the Rio Grande Valley. It eventually leads to Franklin Mountain State Park. There are several trail heads. One is along the Soledad Canyon Road. From Exit 1 on Interstate 25, take University Avenue/Dripping Springs Road east for about 4.5 miles, then turn south on the Soledad Canyon Road. That road will turn east in a mile; follow it until you come to a parking area on your right. You can also access the Mossman Arroyo Road trailhead by exiting Interstate 10 at the Mesquite exit. Other trailheads can be reached by taking the Vado Exit off Interstate 10, and NM 404 at Anthony Gap.

Soledad Canyon/Bar Canyon Waterfall | (Map)

No fee. The trail at Soledad Canyon is every bit as beautiful as those at Dripping Spring, but this trail tends to be less populated. Soledad Canyon Loop is a 3.3-mile loop trail located 10 miles east of Las Cruces. The trails are primarily used for hiking, trail running, horses, and mountain biking. From Exit 1 on Interstate 25, take University Avenue/Dripping Springs Road east for about 4.5 miles, then turn south on the Soledad Canyon Road. That road will turn east in a mile; follow it all the way to the end. It is accessible year-round. Dogs are allowed on the trail, but they must be kept on a leash.

To get to the waterfall, stay to the right when the trail branches, then follow the trail counter-clockwise. Approximately 1.5 miles in there is a junction where the trail divides. You can follow the loop to the left, or continue straight ahead to the old rock house and the waterfall. At just over a half a mile there is an old rock house. Continue on the trail to the waterfall. It will head to the right, up a small hill, then left into a narrow dead-end canyon. The waterfall is all the way at the back. To finish the loop, return to the junction where the trail divided. Turn right. Follow the trail back to the parking area.

Achenbach Canyon bouldering | (Map)

Easily accessible, but seldom hiked area accessed by the road to Soledad Canyon. It is a bit more challenging than Soledad Canyon and Dripping Springs, but a beautiful, less populated option for hiking, with fantastic bouldering available. Take University towards the mountain.  Take a right on Soledad Canyon Road, then a left at the fire station to stay on Soledad.  Right onto Ladera Canyon Road.  After .6 miles, turn left on to an unmarked gravel road. Drive east on country road C077, then turn right onto Soledad Canyon Road. Once at the top of the hill turn right onto Ladera Canyon Road. Head down the road until you see a group of dumpsters. Turn left up the dirt road and follow it through the fence.