Mesilla
Humans have inhabited the Mesilla Valley for thousands of years, from ancient hunter-gatherers to the Mogollon and, later, the Mansos. The river provided a steady supply of food and water and the warm climate improved the odds of survival. Over time, those people migrated from the area, leaving only traces of their existence through pottery shards and petroglyphs. Their influence in the region was quickly supplanted by the Apache, who migrated into the land the Mogollon had vacated. Archaeologists estimate that the Apache and Navajo arrived in New Mexico between 1200 – 1400 A.D. Oral history suggests the migration may have started earlier than that.
From the arrival of Coronado in 1540, looking for legendary cities of gold in the north, the Mesilla Valley is located on the route between the Spanish capital in Mexico City and the northern frontier, El Camino Real (The Royal Road). In 1598 Don Juan de Oñate camped in the valley on his way north to establish the first European colony in North America, San Juan de los Caballero, near present-day Española. El Camino Real became the 1600-mile lifeline between Mexico City and Santa Fe; however, no permanent settlements were established for over 200 years. Southern New Mexico was Apache territory. It wasn’t a good place to linger.
Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848
By 1851, the United States government established Fort Fillmore on the other side of the river to protect their newly conquered territory and the influx of settlers. Mesilla was closer to the fort than Las Cruces or Doña Ana. The village became the supply center for the garrisoned troops, providing entertainment, food, hay and building materials. The Mexican inhabitants of Mesilla provided the skills needed to build an adobe fort. By mid-century the village’s population reached 3,000, making it the largest town between San Antonio and San Diego. It was an important stop for both the Butterfield Stage Line and the San Antonio-San Diego Mail Lines. The community built fancy hotels and restaurants around the plaza to accommodate the deluge of travelers, as well as the influx new residents. The mix of political views and cultures frequently escalated into conflict, fist fights, riots and shootouts.
Gadsden Purchase Absorbs Mesilla
As construction of the railroad commenced, there was an influx of people. The workers consumed huge quantities of beef, placing city officials at the mercy of cattle rustlers. Gunfights were de rigueur in the streets of both Las Cruces and Mesilla. Criminals like Nicolas Provencio and Dutch Hubert were regulars in both towns. William H. Bonney, a.k.a. Billy the Kid was tried and convicted for murder in Mesilla. The judge told Billy he would hang until he was “dead, dead, dead”. Billy responded, “Well you can go to hell, hell, hell”. Later, Lincoln County Sheriff Pat Garrett shot Billy the Kid after he escaped from a Lincoln County jail cell while awaiting execution.
Santa Fe Railroad
Step Into the Past in Mesilla
Visiting Mesilla is like stepping into the past. Its size and population is virtually the same as it was 120 years ago. There is new architecture, but it’s rare. Where a stagecoach depot, saloon, courthouse and hotel once stood, there are restaurants, art galleries, bookstores and shops in the same buildings. In the 1960s, the town’s board of trustees passed a zoning code that preserves the town’s historic character and charm.
On some weekends, the plaza hosts festivals and events, like Cinco de Mayo, Diez y Seis de Septiembre and Dia de los Muertos. The events celebrate the town’s heritage and colorful past. During the holiday season, the plaza is aglow with luminarias and filled with the sounds of carolers. Landmarks include the San Albino Church, which the community built from adobe more than a century ago. Additionally, the Gadsden Museum is a local landmark recounting the area’s rich history. The old Butterfield Stage depot is home to a four-star restaurant, La Posta de Mesilla, which has a well-deserved worldwide reputation.